“Small-scale food production is more sustainable, provides work for more people, produces food which is consumed locally, has shorter supply chains, and provides greater returns to the farmers,” argues author Miles King.

Post-Brexit, he believes: “An England farm support system could inject much more support into small-scale food production.”

The Land Workers’ Alliance (LWA) agrees. One of eight points raised in its proposed framework for British Agricultural Policy post-Brexit sounds the call: “End the discrimination against small farms”.

The report states: “It is unjustifiable for Defra to continue to discriminate against small farms in the allocation of subsidies and collection of farm data.”

Instead, Miles King proposes a shift to supporting “small-scale sustainable farming which benefits nature”, including paying landowners for the delivery of public goods to society. Public goods “are defined as things which benefit society but do not create a private profit”.

Some public goods are: features making up the fabric of the landscape (like hedges, ponds and streams); the provision of clean water, flood prevention; healthy pollinator populations; carbon storage and sequestration; as well as “the many valuable yet intangible things nature provides to people – inspiration, joy, reflection, solace, emotional and spiritual experiences.”

“These features need protection and management, but it is right that landowners should be paid to carry out that protection and management on behalf of society,” says King.

The EU’s Joint Research Centre estimates that food accounts for around a third of the average European’s impact on climate change, so policy changes will need to be coupled with awareness campaigns on the benefits of buying local, such as saving long cross-country journeys from farm to plate.

Support for this view is found in a 2013 report from the UN trade and environment review. More than 60 international experts came together to contribute to the Wake Up Before It Is Too Late report, which states that an holistic approach to agricultural management is needed, recognising that “a farmer is not only a producer of agricultural goods, but also a manager of an agro-ecological system that provides quite a number of public goods and services.”

Within this approach, there should also be a significant shift from industrial production characterised by monocultures towards “mosaics of sustainable, regenerative production systems that also considerably improve the productivity of small-scale farmers.”

Fruits and vegetables would be a useful place to start, suggests Miles King. Defra statistics show that 24 countries accounted for 90% of the fruit and vegetable supply of the UK (UK supplied 23%), but King argues that, “Many types of fruit and vegetable can now be grown in England both outside and under cover, on highly productive but small plots”.

Worth noting though, is a point made by the EU GLAMUR global and local food chain assessment project which suggests that new policies will need to recognise the “hybridity and interconnectedness of global and local food systems”.

The UK’s food culture has been Europeanised since joining the Common Market in 1973, a study by City University (London) states. And nothing makes more apparent than the fact that pizza is now UK childrens’ favourite food. Membership of the EU has eased the flow of food, yet at the same time local industries have been rebuilt (there are now approximately 100 more UK artisanal cheeses than in France according to the British Cheese Awards).

The study concludes, “Will the British have the confidence to move forward and accept this remarkable post-war culinary learning?”

Now, post-Brexit, this question is more pertinent than ever. Can new policies balance the need for a shift towards small-scale production (for example of pears and apples that don’t need to be imported, but often are), while still satisfying consumer tastes?

 This article is part of a new content-sharing arrangement with the LUSH – the ethical cosmetics company that also works to support sustainable farming practices across the Globe